As you work the glass, Sushi-train pink ginger works its way into the olfactory mix along with those same cherries, pink peppercorns and Ras el Hanout. Zesty on the palate, its spring loaded, tightly wound and deliciously tense. So precise. Cherry pip tannins build with airtime and crescendo inevitably into a long amaro finish. Thoughtful winemaking, this is elemental, fine-featured, energetic, very serious and seriously delicious. -Grant Dickson